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Tunica emerges as golfing haven in northern Mississippi
Sep. 23, 2006
By Joel Zuckerman
PGATOUR.com Travel Correspondent
It's safe to say that long about a decade or so ago, not one in a thousand people nationwide had ever heard of Tunica, Mississippi. And unless you were a sociologist or a riverboat captain, an agriculturist or a native Memphian, why should you have?
Before legalized gaming was introduced to Mississippi in the 90s, Tunica County was the poorest county in the United States. The town itself made Mayberry look like Monte Carlo, so slow and sleepy was the pace. The featureless landscape, bordered by the broad expanse of the Mississippi River to the west, and the city of Memphis, Tennessee, to the north, was little more than a sea of cotton fields, and flatter than a Scrabble board. But times, as they say, have changed.
Now Tunica welcomes more than 10 million visitors a year. It's the largest casino resort between Atlantic City and Las Vegas, and while it's lacking the surfside of the former and the out-and-out glitz of the latter, it definitely has some allure of its own. Besides a mild climate, a down-home southern charm and close proximity (just a dozen miles) to the fun and funky city of Memphis, the nine casinos that have sprung from the landscape insure a non-stop slate of gaming, entertainment and dining options. And needless to say, where liberally-spending vacationers go, golf is sure to follow. Currently there are three significant golf venues in greater Tunica.
•Tunica National is the newest, and in the opinion of many, the most estimable of the area's courses. This two-year-old design was executed by 10-time PGA TOUR winner Mark McCumber, one of very few players-turned-course-designers that also happens to be an accredited member of the American Society of Golf Course Architects.
An aerial view of Tunica National. (Provided to PGATOUR.com)
An aerial view of Tunica National. (Provided to PGATOUR.com)
His wind-whipped Mississippi masterpiece is a sturdy test of the game. The rolling terrain is rife with strategically-placed water hazards and bunkers, which are balanced with generous landing areas. Big, fast, undulating greens await golfers after they negotiate the trouble tee-to-green. Fortunately, a 360-degree circular range allows all players the comprehensive warm-up necessary to negotiate one of northern Mississippi's staunchest golf challenges.
•The Cottonwoods Golf Club, located at the Grand Casino Resort, has a rare golf pedigree. This 7,000-yard challenge is a Hale Irwin design. The three-time U.S. Open champion and the most dominant player in Champions TOUR history has created a Scottish links feel on the property, with gentle rolling fairways, three lakes, and beautifully landscaped cart paths.
Over half the holes border water, and 80 bunkers dot the landscape, most surrounding pristine putting surfaces that are sprigged with Crenshaw bent grass. The par 3 holes are particularly tough and the finishing holes have plenty of inherent drama. They cap the round in crescendo style thanks to risk-reward shots over water made more difficult by the ever-present and stout wind.
•River Bend Links was born of an unusual alliance of three casinos, normally fierce competitors, who saw the need for alternative entertainment for their guests and the public. Sam's Town, Hollywood and Harrah's Casino joined forces to build this user-friendly facility, slightly less ferocious in its playing demands than its area siblings. Architect Clyde Johnston describes his creation as "a field of dunes." It's as good a description as any, because the 18 holes are comfortably nestled in a bend of the Mississippi River.
The 6,900-yard track offers a range of sand and grass bunkers, mounds, and treeless, wind-swept landscapes to facilitate a traditional feel. Located in the adjacent town of Robinsonville, and further removed from the burgeoning population center of Tunica itself, animals still inhabit the area. For most golfers, birdies are all too rare, but they may well encounter deer, fox or wild turkey.
Any worthwhile casino destination has a dozen shows, a hundred restaurants and a thousand hotel rooms, if not a multiple of that factor. But Tunica is distinguished in a way that Vegas, Foxwoods, the Bahamas and Atlantic City are not. The reason comes down to three words: The Mighty Mississippi. Visitors would do well to tear themselves away from both the buffet and the baccarat tables, not to mention the driving range, and head down to the RiverPark Museum.
I know -- "casino" and "culture" are often mutually exclusive terms. But in one edifying hour -- two, if you complement the RiverPark tour with a highly recommended cruise on the "Big Muddy" itself by boarding the Tunica Queen -- a visitor can obtain a working education as to why the Mississippi River has been such a vital conduit in our nation's history. And here's the upshot: It doesn't even feel like learning!
The interactive nature of the displays, the dynamic, state-of-the-art video monitors, and the wall-sized illustrations all combine to provide a "you are there" atmosphere that will appeal to both kids and adults. Besides, once class is dismissed, and you board the Queen, enjoying a spicy Bloody Mary or ice-cold beer, listening to the live banjo music as you cruise the river, the fun really begins. But, as hundreds of thousands of repeat visitors will happily attest, in Tunica, you can make a valid argument that the fun never really ends. |
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